JOHN FRASER’S new restaurant is doomed. It may make a splash at the start, but by this time next year it will be over, done with, kaput. At least if you take him at his word. For his follow-up to Dovetail , an elegant success on the Upper West Side, Mr. Fraser has chosen a project with a death foretold. He signed a short-term lease for a space in SoHo whose landlord cannot promise that the building, likely to be demolished, will be around past July. In return he received a rent of about $9,000 a month, well below market rate. He was also freed from many of the little and big concerns that can turn the opening of a restaurant into such a protracted odyssey and the running of it into such an expensive one. Because he’s not fashioning a keeper, he can — and must — keep his investment low. He’s not paying for, or bothering with, a proper sign out front. The dozens of chairs, used, were bought on eBay for under $10 each, and if they’re not so...